June; Thanks for your article on Artichokes, I discovered The Artichoke when I moved back to California in 1953, and finished High School in Woodland. My mother discovered them and how to prepare them,
Later, in 1957 we moved back to Missouri, and artichokes were just starting to show up in the markets there.People would sneak over to my mother and ask: “What are those?”.
Later in 1967 when I moved to El Granada, I was completely surprised that I was surrounded by artichokes, and of a size I never imagined.I soon learned different ways to prepare them,and seldom had a meal, when I was home,without them.In fact sometimes, a couple of Artichokes,and a couple of bottles of wine were my dinner (Corky’s Store was way too close).
Later, in 1977 I lived near Sidney, Ohio,in the country, and my lady, and I. had a really large garden.At this time I really fell in-love with County Fairs, and in Ohio, county had a fair.
I used to sit on the fence, and watch the boy on the farm next door work his border collie each day,and later saw him win the competition at the Shelby County Fair.Somewhere along here I became obcessed with growing Artichokes in Shelby County (Probably the most “artichoke climate and soil” in the country), having the choke documented by the “County Agent”, and then entering it in the County Fair, in hopes they couldn’t ID it, let alone judge it.”
I sent for information on growing artichokes, designed a “Plastic Greenhouse”, with spray to re-create coastside fog & shade, and was all ready to go,when my Girlfriend ran off and joined the carnival. (There hangs another story.) and my whole life and project fell apart.
I still love Artichokes and miss Abalone,more than I can describe- Take care-
I am halfway through Mikie’s book, “Searching for Anna.”. Read it during work today. Interesting “small town” details here: The book mentions many familiar names and places. Some of the people I recognize as customers during the time I worked at Longs. I remember that Mikie’s husband Charles Calvert also oftencame into the gallery with his watercolors to be framed. Michael has a piece of artwork that was given to him by the previous owner of Mikie and Charles’ house, Howard Gilligan, who painted the portrait of Anna for the book. I have attached a scan of the painting that Michael kept, which is on an envelope
around a postage stamp of a bald eagle.
It is reminiscent of my envelope drawings.
Michael also shot Mikie’s wedding to Charles in 1998. A Greek Church
wedding, in San Francisco, on Brotherhood Way..
Mikie was Michael’s next-door neighbor when he, Lorna & Kaitlyn lived in Montara. She taught Kaitlyn piano. Attached is the only shot that we have of that wedding (back in the olden days – you know – before digital – Michael would give the wedding couple their negatives. He didn’t keep them, as many professional wedding photographers did). You can’t really see Mikie & Charles, who are a tiny blur, but the stained glass windows are brilliant. I posted it on the wedding website.
I haven’t told you that my parents used to live in California in the late 50s early 60s.
The thing is my father was a cook on board of a ship during his state service which he did in the navy – young men didn’t have the choice, until 1998, we all had to register and be conscripted – my brother and I also went into the navy. At the time whan my father did his, it lasted 12 months – mine was due for 10 months, I did 3 and went off sick with 7 months left.
He embarked on a ship to NYc and because of a brzakge at some point on board, they had to stay 6 whole months in NYC. He fell in love with the States.
Later, my father went back to the US on his own first working at the Beverly Hilton in LA, then went back to France to marry my mother and adopt my elder brother and they all flew to LA, then moved to San Francisco. They left because mum was homesick and heard about deaths in both families which she couldn’t bear being far away from. So they all came back in 63 – as far as I remember. I was born 11 years later as you know.
I’m sending you a paper clip from an American cuisine critique and another one in French when dad received a distinction in the late 70s just to show you who my dad is (was – he is retired now of course) on the photo, next to him is mum. I had just been born at the time.
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“1955: Story by Mike Jackson
Cuisine a ‘Way of Life’ for Experienced Chef, Disciple of Escoffier
Cook’s Night In. I always wear tennis shoes when turning out Jell-O. Gives you chance to jump back when the stuff splashes, Escoffier, the great French chef, worked in a black frock coat. These differences in our clothing caused me to wonder how other chefs were going about their kitchen craft these days. Thought it was time to talk with one. We could swap trade secrets.
Man I discussed dish doings with was Michel Ruhlmann, chef of the Escoffier Room at the Beverly Hilton Hotel. Ruhlman is one of the 65 specialists who feed 3000 to 4000 daily in the hotel’s three dining rooms, banquet halls and through room service. They are all under the direction of Gabriel Comte, chief chef.
Since its opening in August 1955, with a $100 per plate feast, The Escoffier Room has been a gathering place for gourmets. Ruhlmann presides over its kitchen with a retinue of three cooks, one pantry boy. He shows up for work at 4, serves the first meal at 7. He wears white jacket and pants, puts on his high bonnet only for special occasions.
Ruhlmann is in his mid-30s, a serious type with brown eyes and hair and a lithe way of walking. He likes to cook over charcoal, doesn’t go in for timers, thermometers or gadgets. He knows when a dish is ready without the need to look at a dial.
It’s a nice life. But he hopes, soon to return to his native Normandy village of Forge les Eaux. One thing that draws him back is a wonderful dessert called Drouillon, apples wrapped in pastry and served with cheese.
“Here,” he said, “everyone is in such a hurry. There’s no time for small pleasures and conversation. Here, no one walks. In France, I do not need a car.
Back home, Ruhlman walks to the butcher, chats with neighbors along the way, meets with the farmers when they bring their vegetable carts into town.
“Every week we had picnics,” he aid. “Always in the evening is singing and dancing. We enjoy life.”
“LOCAL GOURMETS, says Rurhlmann, are most likely to order Dover Sole Michel, duck or soufflés. Men prefer snails, filet or New York cut steaks and Cherries Jubilee. Women go for lobster, chicken, French pastry. We eat less fish than do the French and more sweets. The French finish their meals with cheese and a glass of red wine.
” All Ruhlmann’s attitudes, like those of any chef, are deeply influenced by George Auguste Escoffier. Escoffier was called “The king of chefs and the chef of kings.” Nobody knows the brave man who first ate an oyster, but King Edward VII was the first to have a go at frogs’ legs. Escoffier served them up in a wine boullion covered with champagne aspic. It was only one of hundred dishes he created.
“More important than Escoffier’s innovations in kitchen technique and his creations, was his complete break with the past. Until 1880, ladies did not dine in public. When Charles Ritz made the Grande Hotel de Monte Carlo the most luxurious restaurant in the world, it was Escoffier who prepared special dishes for women, worked with silversmiths and the Waterford crystal factory to set a table that equaled that of Europe’s finest homes.
“NOW, EVERY top restaurant reflects the Escoffier touch. There is hardly a sauce or specialty that cannot be traced to him. Escoffier, himself, would probably pass up them all. He ate simply, on soup with rice and fresh fruit.
“I have a feeling Escoffier would’ve been elated by my Jell-O. But he died in 1935, when all could cook was marshmallows over a campfire.”
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Walter Ruhlmann is a teacher and editor living in France.
On Saturday, Michael’s daughter Kaitlyn brought by a Fathers Day gift for her dad. Since she couldn’t take him out to breakfast, she brought a book for him, instead – “Searching for Anna”. I had been reading your blogs, and mentioned the book to Michael. He was surprised, and said that he didn’t know that “Mikie” as he calls her, had lost a child. He told his daughter about the book several weeks ago (she and her mom know Michaele, too), and Kaitlyn bought a copy. Since Michael doesn’t read books often, I will be reading it today when waiting at the hospital. Anna would be 2 years older than my daughter Kelly, who is now 37. I know that there will be tears, so have brought lots of tissues. That has got to be the worst – not knowing. Leaves an open wound that can never know closure. Sorry if this sounds too sad. I have great faith that we will be reunited with our loved ones when we leave our bodies. It’s just now that is hard to get through.
You take care, too, but just wanted to know that one one way or another, your blogs are being read, and inspire folks.
The most interesting thing to me about this article from the August 22nd, 1905 issue of “The Call,” is the list of movers and shakers of Halfmoon Bay and the district. I wonder if any of those letterheads still exist? Might be interesting to see how this Chamber of Commerce-type organization did with its first big effort. Enjoy. John
HALFMOON BAY FOR PROGRESS
CITIZENS ORGANIZE A BOARD OF TRADE TO ADVANCE THE INTERESTS OF THE SECTION
BUSINESS MEN IN LINE
ENTIRE DISTRICT UPON WHICH TOWN DEPENDS FOR PROSPERITY WILL BE GIVEN ATTENTION
HALFMOON BAY Aug. 21.— This
city has given another evidence of its
progress. The coming of the electric
railway, the laying out of a new sum
mer resort and the establishment of a
town bank have been followed by the
organization of the Board of Trade of
Halfmoon Bay. This body is a practi-
cal, working association of the leading
citizens here.
They are determined to advance and
advertise the interests not only of
Halfmoon Bay, but of the entire dis-
trict upon, which this town depends for
its prosperity. As a preliminary meas-
ure in this direction, the Board of
Trade has under consideration the the purchase of 10,000 letter heads and envelopes, appropriately marked, to distinguish the town.
The board has elected the following
officers to serve for the first term:
President, Joseph F. Francis; first vice
president, C. F. Wlthrow; second vice
president, A.. E. Case; secretary, A. A.
Lawson; treasurer. J. Hall Lewis of the
Bank of Halfmoon Bay. The executive
committee, upon which will devolve
much of the. active work of the organization is as follows:Y. B. Sanders, C. W. Borden, Henry Levy and W. V.
Francis.
The success of this effort of the peo-
ple of Halfmoon Bay to improve the
condition of their town is assured by
the following membership in the
Board of Trade, which comprises the
leading merchants, business and com-
mercial men and citizens here: Robert
I. Knapp, Lester J. Skidmore, Joseph
Debenedetti, C. F. Withrow, W. V.
Francis, C.W. Borden, H. G. Knapp.
A. A. Lawson, Jay C. Powers, J. C.Meckelson, Joseph Rue, John Pitcher,A. E. Case, A. T. Gilcrest, Albert Ritz, Joseph F. Francis, C.P. Mosconl, Y. B.Sanders, Henry Levy, James Seymour, Edward S. Gonzales, Thomas F. Quinlan, J. V. Azevedo, William Pringle, J. H. Lewis, H.E. Griffiths, J. C. Perielra, Dr. G. S. Holllster, and W. A. Simmons.
When a truckload of Half Moon Bay-grown artichokes was donated to the Volunteers of America organization in San Francisco in 1928, the thorny vegetable with delicious leaves and a soft edible heart was so unknown that no one knew how to eat it.
Lack of knowledge about the “choke” short for artichoke, was a tad bit intimidating g for the city folk.
But this was San Francisco, a city, free and easy, ready to try something new. One poor fellow devoured his, leaves and all, nearly choking to death, according to newspaper reports. A second smothered the tender leaves with ketchup. A third soaked his daintily in a bowl of steaming hot soup.
When yet a fourth diner mistook the exotic vegetable for a table decoration, and another commented: “It looks like a blooming begonia,” the manager thought it was time to post a sign with instructions on how to consume an artichoke.
Strange as it may seem, many people really did not know how to eat an artichoke.
The key to popularizing artichoke consumption, produce brokers believed, lay in cultivating the public’s taste. This was accomplished by pointing out the artichoke’s distinctive flavor like this: “…so different from other vegetables that one usually has to acquire the taste for artichokes in much the same way as olives,” explained the Half Moon Bay Coastside Growers Association in a period pamphlet.
The goal was to replace the equally exotic asparagus as the first place choice with the consumer. And while it is difficult to imagine any similarity between asparagus and artichokes, the HMB Grower’s Association held that “the artichoke is eaten much in the same way as the asparagus.” It’s likely that the only thing that the vegetables shard is that both could be boiled, banked, or friend.
Then there was the nutritional value. Artichokes had iron but the publicists may have pushed their case too far when they also claimed that chokes were “universally recommended by doctors and served generally in hospitals.”
One legend has it that a group of famous pugilists brought the artichoke to the top of the page as a result of their visits to Half Moon Bay. Champion Boxers like Battling Nelson, Sharkey and Jimmy Britt left their training camps at Colma to train along the sandy beaches at Half Moon Bay in the early 1900s. Always, not far behind, were the sports reporters and their endless questions, seeking colorful quotes on upcoming bouts. The day’s training over, the boxers and reporters headed for a meal at the Half Moon Bay Inn on Main Street in Half Moon Bay.
Dinner always included artichoke “bottoms” with a puree of chestnuts, baked with bechamel sause, and a grainy coating of Parmesan cheese, all washed down with a glass of claret.
And that, according to legend, is what led to the planting of thousands more acres of artichokes.
[A little history: The farmers in Italy’s Po Valley were renown for the quality of their delicious artichokes they cultivated, and it is said that their descendants introduced the “mysterious” vegetable to Half Moon Bay. That’s one version.]
The Coastside provided the perfect climate for this so-called “edible luxury,” one that craved fog and moisture on its crown and leaves. To the choke, heat was anathema. A consistent dose of hot weather toughened up its otherwise tender disposition.
The first commercial plantings occurred about 1900. They were shipped to San Francisco, served as a specialty in the City’s finest Italian restaurant.
There was also an increasing demand from New York and New Orleans, but almost everywhere else the artichoke remained a mystery vegetable.
About the time of the San Francisco earthquake and fire, 1,500 acres were devoted to artichokes in Half Moon Bay and production increased annually. There was more curiosity about the finicky plant, and botanists were said to make annual pilgrimages to nearby Pacifica, where the silver-green plant also carpeted the fertile San Pedro Valley.
Tidy six-foot artichoke tracts stretched as far as the eye could see, and no where else in the world could they produce an artichoke of the size and quality as those on the Coastside.
With artichokes dominating the Coastal landscape, there soon came a time when Half Moon Bay’s agricultural industry was described as an “assemblage of houses entirely surrounded by artichokes.”
As it gained commercial acceptance, other California coastal communities began trying their luck with the artichoke. The fields spread northward to Point Reyes in Marin County and as far south as Santa Barbara.
This foggy sliver of coastal land was dubbed “the Artichoke Coast,” but Half Moon Bay was its capital, and Dante Dianda was the man known as “the Artichoke King.”
His fields were north of Half Moon Bay, in and around the El Granada area, covering 1,000 acres.
“It is there that Dante Dianda is the leading spirit in the California artichoke industry, and the man who has achieved the most in developing the quality of the California artichoke,” penned the Mercantile Trust Co. of California in an article.
If provoked, this volatile farmer could also be a difficult neighbor. When the inevitable encroachment of streets and side-streets threatened his crops in El Granada, he fought back by plowing up the pavement, throwing rich colored dirt on the sidewalks, and re-planting artichokes where there had been an attempt to pour concrete.
But it was that same energy that drove Dianda and caused Half Moon Bay to evolve as the major source of artichokes in the entire country.
It wasn’t often that the local winter was extreme enough to threaten the artichoke crop. In 1923, an unusual cold snap struck the Coastside, and substantial portions of the harvest were lost. Prices skyrocketed overnight from $8 to $20 a crate on the local market.
Coincidentally, the following year the the newfound popularity of the artichoke finally earned it the title of “King of Vegetables,” replacing the esteemed position long held of the long and thick asparagus.
In the mid-1920s when the government established standards for the globe artichoke, California was growing more and than the rest of the world combined.
There were attempts to open new markets by experimenting with the canning of artichokes, but the new process was quickly abandoned. The value was in the artichoke’s freshness and its ability to survive transport by land and sea. (It was years later that that artichoke hearts packed in jars with olive oil became an epicurean delight.)
Besides being shipped to San Francisco by truck, the chokes were also loaded on the Coastside’s Ocean Shore Railroad. But this method of transportation proved unreliable and fatal to the delicate vegetable as the train was often delayed due to falling rocks on the tracks at Devils Slide.
Through all, Coastsiders demonstrated their loyalty to the artichoke, and much of the yearly crop was consumed locally.
In the 1930s a new market was tapped. The best of New York City’s Italian restaurants developed a voracious appetite for the tender, smallest-sized buds, which were also the cheapest. They were dipped in batter and fried in deep oil and eaten whole, and as favored by the Italians.
It is said that an enterprising Los Angeles produce broker exploited the situation by shipping carloads of the smallest buds to the East Coast. They were then brought to markets on the West Side of Manhattan where the Italians resided and sold out in record time.
Push cart peddlers sold them like hotcakes. Price was based on the size of the bud, the larger, the more it cost. New Yorkers of every stripe were now enjoying the funny, mysterious vegetable.
But times were changing on the Coastside. By the late 1950s it was said artichokes were as hard to find on restaurant menus in Half Moon Bay as chestnuts. Coastside land was being swallowed up by developers.
As Half Moon Bay relinquished its coveted title as the capital of the “Artichoke Coast,” farms sprang up in Monterey County where today “chokes” have become the official vegetable.
