Summer 1929: Tragedy at Sea Near Pigeon Point Lighthouse, Part II

As the San Juan continued south past Pigeon Point, the Standard Oil tanker S.C.T. Dodd was plowing northward up the coast toward San Francisco, nearing the end of her voyage from Baltimore.

The vessels were 12-miles out, off the San Mateo-Santa Cruz coastline when minutes before midnight the sound of a piercing whistle broke the stillness of the night.

Without any further warning, the sickening shriek of metal tearing metal roared through the San Juan’s staterooms. The Granstedts were thrown from their berths. Hearts pounding, pulses racing, the panicked couple threw on clothes and fled to the deck.

The oil tanker Dodd had rammed the San Juan and the old steamer was sinking. Once on deck, the Granstedts encountered an eerie scene of terrified passengers and crew dashing about madly—and the smell of fear was pervasive. Theodore Granstedt saw no order, only chaos.

Some passengers jumped overboard, others were swept away by the powerful waves. Through the foggy mist, Captain Asplund could be seen trying to help women into a lifeboat.

There was no time to reflect, hardly time for prayer: It all happened so fast.

One second the Granstedts were standing beside their good friends, John and Anna Olsen, and their daughter, Helen. The next moment the San Juan was plunging stern first into the sea, creating a whirlpool that sucked them all in the abyss.

Then there was a great and very loud explosion.

Of the original group, only Theodore Granstedt survived. The next thing he knew he had surfaced from beneath the cold water. Searchlights illuminated the sea littered with wreckage—but he did not recognize the faces of people struggling in the nearby surf, clinging to toolboxes, screaming for help.

Miraculously, before the seriously injured Mountain View man lost consciousness, he grasped the piece of floating debris that saved his life.

By now lifeboats had been launched from other vessels in the vicinity: the oil tanker Dodd, the lumber carrier Munami and the motor-ship Frank Lynch. Theodore Granstedt was one of the 38 surviving passengers and crewmembers.

Wife, Emma, whose anxieties were sadly proven valid was one of 72 presumed dead…as were the Olsens and Stanford student Paul Wagner.

Although many of the San Juan’s survivors were crew, Captain Asplund went down with his ship as did the purser, Jack Cleveland.

…To be continued…

Summer 1929: Tragedy at Sea Near Pigeon Point Lighthouse, Part I

3.jpeg

(Above: Emma Granstedt, center; at right, Mrs. Olsen. Courtesy Patrick Moore, click here  4.jpeg (At right: Theodore Granstedt. Courtesy Patrick Moore, click here)

Emma Granstedt felt a premonition of danger as she boarded the popular “commuter steamerâ€? San Juan at San Francisco on Thursday, August 29, 1929.

The middle-aged Mountain View woman tried to explain the feelings she couldn’t shake to her husband, Theodore: She was worried about an accident at sea, she told him.

Theodore assured his uneasy wife that there was nothing to worry about. The venerable 47-year-old iron steamer made routine runs between the City and Los Angeles—and he reminded her about the attractively inexpensive fare, ranging from $8 to $10 per passenger.

He may have pointed to the San Juan’s advertisement in the local newspaper: “A delightful way to travel,â€? promised the ad. “One fare includes comfortable berth, excellent meals, open-air dancing, promenade decks, radio music—all the luxury of ocean travel. A trip to be remembered! The economic way that entails no sacrifice!â€?

Premonition or not, it was too late for the Granstedts to change their mind.

It would mean canceling the plans they had made with the Palo Alto friends they were traveling with, John and Anna Olsen and the couple’s 28-year-old daughter, Helen.

The Granstedts and Olsens were traveling to Southern California to attend a wedding anniversary celebration—and the trip also gave them good reason to visit the Granstedt’s daughter, Irene, who was pursuing an acting career in Hollywood.

Emma may have been consoled to learn that only a few days earlier the San Juan had been in dry dock at which time a new rudder and propeller were installed. The vessel was cleaned, painted and the sea valves overhauled. The steamer’s radio was in tiptop shape, and life-saving equipment included six lifeboats and 110 life preservers for adults and 17 children.

Steamboat officials, who inspected the San Juan, pronounced her safe and in fine condition.

Daylight faded and the sky darkened as the sailing hour neared on Thursday, August 29. It was customary for the purser, Jack Cleveland, to sell tickets to impulsive travelers who made a last-minute decision to sail from San Francisco to L.A. One such last-minute ticket-buyer may have been 24-year-old Stanford graduate student Paul Wagner, who was on his way to visit his family in Southern California.

On board the busy steamer there was no hint of anything out of the ordinary—but one significant change had been made: 65-year-old retired Captain Adolph F. Asplund replaced the regular commander who had taken time off for his summer vacation. The experienced Captain Asplund knew every inch of the San Juan, as he had been her captain many years before.

When the San Juan left port, there were 110 men, women and children on board, 65 passengers and 45 members of the crew. All were settling in and a few hours later the steamer approached the beautiful Pigeon Point lighthouse, south of the village of Pescadero.

By now many of the sleepy passengers, including the Granstedts and the Olsens, headed for their staterooms below deck to rest on their first night at sea.

pp.jpeg

…To be continued….

Photo: Pigeon Point, courtesy San Mateo County History Museum, Redwood City.

April 18, 1906: The Day the Earth Shuddered in Half Moon Bay

E1.jpegSybil Easterday’s rooster should have awakened her from her deep sleep on the morning of April 18, 1906. Instead the well known eccentric sculptress, who lived with her mother, Flora, in an artistic home at Tunitas Creek, south of Half Moon Bay, found herself captive to the sudden shaking and moving of the earth.

There was no fighting back with this earthquake; it was very powerful and held their very lives in the balance.

Flora Easterday, a pianist, desperately clutched a table to keep from falling. It looked as if she were on a violent jumping jack–like some giant monster was tearing away the floors and walls

When the shuddering stopped, the Easterdays rushed outside to make sure the world they had known was still there. What they found were huge cracks in the earth– cracks big enough to engulf a human leg, and they threw fistfuls of loose dirt into the fissures so that the baby ducks wouldn’t get swallowed up.

The Easterday’s Tunitas Creek home was a stone’s throw from the Ocean Shore Railroad’s future depot-—but until the day before the quake workers were laying tracks 15 or so miles to the north near Mussel Rock—where the San Andreas Fault rises from the sea and heads inland.

Actual grading for the railroad had reached several miles further south and as the ground trembled the land exposed hundreds of deep crevices. Boulders tumbled down near Devil’s Slide and the big rocks swept away the Ocean Shore’s expensive equipment as they rolled over the fragile cliffs into the Pacific Ocean. Seconds after the powerful vibrations ceased, the railroad bed was contorted beyond recognition.

The Ocean Shore Railroad had already experienced financial difficulties but it was the 1906 earthquake that struck the killer blow.

E6.jpeg

In Half Moon Bay the quake’s damage was swift and brutal, snuffing out life and wrecking businesses and homes on or near Main Street. The general store, Cereghino & Debenedetti, lost an entire wall, giving the impression that a tornado had blown through the building. That would be easier to repair than what happened to Levy Brothers, a much larger store– a brick structure that simply collapsed leaving behind nothing but dust.
E9.jpeg

Perhaps the greatest historical loss was the Vasquez Adobe, which dated back to the mid-1800s. In that tragedy a dozen people were buried alive.
E7.jpeg

Giant boulders also blocked the Half Moon Bay-San Mateo Road, today known as Highway 92. But intrepid stagecoach driver McFadden refused to allow the rocks to stand in his way.

His stagecoach arrived in Half Moon Bay with a screech and soon was surrounded by a crowd of locals, desperate to know how bad things were elsewhere. When McFadden breathlessly told them that most of San Francisco lay in ruins, his report was met with a stunned silence.

Photo (1) Half Moon Bay, before the earthquake
Photo (2) Cereghino & Debenedetti General Store, courtesy Henry Debenedetti
Photo (3) Levy Brothers, courtesy San Mateo County History Museum
Photo (4) Vasquez Adobe, courtesy Spanishtown Historical Society

My Love Affair With Devil’s Slide

ds.jpeg
There’s only two ways to get to San Francisco from the isolated San Mateo Coastside.

The sedate choice is with Highway 92, the same trail used by creaky stagecoaches 100-years-ago—and the breathtaking alternative, Devil’s Slide, a raw 11-mile stretch of twisting roadway, 1000- feet above the crashing Pacific surf, originally blasted out of million-year-old rock by the Ocean Shore Railroad engineers in the early 20th century.

I can’t remember when I first drove Devil’s Slide but it never bored me, even after a 30-year relationship.

Some people don’t believe that I’m not intimidated by the Slide—Devil’s Slide plain old scares them, particularly when the winds shake their cars and the thick fog makes their headlights useless.

I suspect it’s more than fear that keeps these folks off the Slide. Devil’s Slide brings one face- to -face with raw nature, the wind and the rock and the surf, some folks can’t handle that, they want to see nature harnessed, civilized and confined like a photograph on the wall.

Whenever people become complacent, Devil’s Slide reminds them where the real power resides .The Ocean Shore Railroad, an iron road that cut through the mountains along the Pacific, barely lasted a decade before the Slide twisted their tracks and reclaimed the roadway.

It was a constant challenge to the automobile commuters–using the same roadbed as the failed railroad—but in 1995 Devil’s Slide ruthlessly attacked, collapsing the road and shutting the Slide down completely for almost a year.

It’s been 11 years since then and things have been pretty quiet. An occasional car crashes into the surf but by and large it’s been peaceful.

Now I’m at home and the recent incessant rains have angered the Devil’s Slide gods. They’re hurdling four-ton boulders onto the roadway. It’s been closed a couple of weeks now and I’m heartsick at the prospect that my love affair with Devil’s Slide has been broken off again. I hope not for long.

The planners are already digging a multi-million-dollar, one-mile-long tunnel that they hope will “neutralizeâ€? Devil’s Slide.

I have a feeling their project will prove to be futile.

The End of the Slide?


Oh nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

For hours last night, in the deep of the dark, I listened to the wind. It was hard to sleep.

We have a family of Eucalyptus trees in the center of the street, and, thank goodness, they caught the blows from the rain-less storm.

The last time Devil’s Slide was closed (1990s), every morning I looked out of my window and saw the endless line of commuters feeding into Highway 1 for the tedious ride to 92, the only other road out of here.

Bring all your electronic toys with you as you struggle to get to work.

P.S. We have a friend, we call him “Foley”, and he lives “over the hill”. He’s a big old Irish guy–he was a pilot for United (before that, TWA)–his father was a dentist in San Mateo. Every time there’s a Coastside car accident or road closing, he calls to give us the “good” news. But we haven’t heard from this morning– maybe this time the news (that the Slide may be closed forever) is so bad that he’s sparing us. Do you think? Today, got the “indefinitely closed alert” from Coastsider.com

More of San Gregorio Farms in the 1970s…

…and its main crop, the agricultural earthworm

The bins were filled with the hybrid earthworms (and soil, of course)

Photos: Below: Pouring cement for a new floor in one of the farm’s barns.

Center: Beautiful view of the San Gregorio Ranch in the 1970s, today part of POST (Peninsula Open Space Trust).

Bottom: Walking along peaceful Stage Road: